⌛ 110/120 volt appliances bring lower bills.

I just found out yesterday that my electric bill was low,This is in comparison to my first stay here earlier in the year with only 220 volt fans, so i returned again month and a half ago with 120 volt fan with better air circulating and a blender and powered TV input spliter(plug 5 players into tv at once using switch box spliter) and also the game console and my own shaver so no more local barber,and muti piece home recording studio and electric piano..Of course I had to buy the converter box..So with all my added electrical use from appliances i didnt have when i was running 220,,,my bill is still the same and I'm even leaving stuff on in one room while I go to the next room to run something else,i used to not do this,and i even ran small AC time on the 220 unit..with all this seemingly excess use,my bill is the same as when i used no AC and turned things off when not in the room and used far less appliances...Its got to be the half load factor of using 110 volt...

 

my converter box specializes in 220 to 110 AC but on the back it has a switch to convert 110 to 220,so I tried it on my generator and it worked but after blowing the fuse to find its meager limit..The step up conversion requires calculations and reading your appliance ratings and also some spare fuses for the learning curve....I remember questions about this from prior post and i advised no faith in it for poor efficiency but hey i got a 220 volt small freezer running on a 1000 watt 110 volt generator.So on hottest days with brownouts-there is some hope against heat stroke...

 

Without getting into all that other stuff Tunji, let me assure you that there is no inherent power savings to be gained by using appliances needing a voltage transformation device, step up or step down.

 

buy power saver in SM it can save you 35% of your bill

 

I agree. :D

Volts x Amps = Watts

The wattage used, in your case, is going to be the same no matter 110v or 220 v. The other problem is that transformers are inherently 5-10% inefficient.

 

Manzanita is 100% correct I'm affraid. Amps X volts = watts. 746 watts = 1 horsepower (electrically). If you look at identical items (a 1/2 hp motor for example) that is rated for 120 volt, you will see that the amp draw is twice that of the same 240 volt motor. It halves again when you go to 480 volt or when you go to 3phase (industrial).
And KDF is also correct that all transformers loose because of windings.
However, there are additional variables for a lower bill. You pay for kilowatts, so if your electric service happens to be 228 volts today, you will pay less than you paid when it was 215 yesterday and used more amps.

 

That's why Noreco gives you 180 Volts most of the time.
It is also the reason that you pay more/kwh if you have your own transformer.

 

Firefly, please explain about the charge if you have a transformer. This is something that I have not heard about.

 

And just to clarify something that some might not have seen in there home countries is the rating of "va" for volt-ampere.
Volt ampere is a measurement of power just like "watts" but with power factor taken into account.
For our purposes of normal residential electrical needs, just conciser "va" as an items watt rating.

Now who knows what is meant by "power factor" and how does that contribute to the garage light not coming on at night?

 

I am not technical gifted but I don't understand that.

if you pay for watts, the voltage and the ampere does not matter . Lower voltage, more amps, same watts, same price.

Sorry for asking a dumb question.