Dumaguete Info Search


Home & Garden Generator Repair Question

Discussion in 'Businesses - Services - Products' started by Rye83, Apr 24, 2016.

  1. Rye83

    Rye83 with pastrami Admin Secured Account Highly Rated Poster SC Connoisseur Veteran Army

    Messages:
    13,106
    Trophy Points:
    451
    Occupation:
    FIRE
    Location:
    Valencia
    Ratings:
    +16,069 / 3,795
    Blood Type:
    O+
    I've not had any luck with local mechanics so I'm doing this stuff myself. My generator is as basic as it gets. A couple weeks ago I had to replace a dry-rotted short fuel line that goes from the fuel cut off valve to the carburetor. It ran well after that for around 20 minutes.

    Yesterday I went to test it out again, it would start fine but after around 15 second or would bog down and die. Couldn't get it running yesterday. Today it was doing the same but I managed to get it running by manually controlling the throttle with my finger. I had to do this for a couple minutes until it would control the throttle sufficiently enough to stay running on its own. While doing this I could feel the generator trying to control the throttle but it was very sluggish to react and jerky in its control.

    After applying a load to the generator I had to again control the throttle with my finger for a couple minutes to keep it running. I was able to walk away from it and go inside. The idle was all screwed up for about an hour (but voltage coming out was steady at 225-226V....much more consistent than what NORECO provides at 200-240) but now it is running like it did the first day I got it.

    I suspect there is some sort of throttle controller that might be clogged up with dirt/gunk and once it hits operating temp it loosens up. I'm no mechanic though, not sure if there could be something else causing this problem. If anyone has any ideas/advice it would be appreciated.

     
    • Like Like x 1
  2. Best Answer:
    Post #11 by shakey, Jun 27, 2016 (5 points)
  3. cabb

    cabb DI Forum Patron Highly Rated Poster ✤Forum Sponsor✤

    Messages:
    1,430
    Trophy Points:
    341
    Ratings:
    +1,106 / 241
    I'm not mechanic, but it could be a choke not working properly if it runs fine when warm.

    "A choke on a lawnmower engine, or any engine with a carburetor, is a device that reduces the airflow through the carburetor. It causes the fuel-air ratio to be richer, that is, more fuel and less air. This helps most carbureted engines to start while cold and before steady fuel flow is established, but the rich mixture reduces the power and efficiency of the engine tremendously. Leaving the choke on will produce hydrocarbon and carbon monoxide emissions and may cause the engine to stall as soon as any load is placed upon it. That is why engines require either manual release of the choke or have an automated device to back it off. Excessive use of the choke will generally result in fouled spark plugs."
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  4. OP
    OP
    Rye83

    Rye83 with pastrami Admin Secured Account Highly Rated Poster SC Connoisseur Veteran Army

    Messages:
    13,106
    Trophy Points:
    451
    Occupation:
    FIRE
    Location:
    Valencia
    Ratings:
    +16,069 / 3,795
    Blood Type:
    O+
    Something to look in to. Thanks.
     
  5. cabb

    cabb DI Forum Patron Highly Rated Poster ✤Forum Sponsor✤

    Messages:
    1,430
    Trophy Points:
    341
    Ratings:
    +1,106 / 241
    Choke is part of carburetor. Try carburetor cleaner.
     
  6. Charlie

    Charlie DI Senior Member Restricted Account Veteran Coast Guard

    Messages:
    711
    Trophy Points:
    226
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    Ratings:
    +417 / 128
    Mine is a diesel but I had a similar problem once. It wouldn't stay running unless I manually held the throttle/run /stop thing in the run position several times. it would eventually over-ride I guess but it gave me the idea to replace that switch. I took a lucky guess and replaced the low oil pressure switch. I don't recall the cost exactly but it was fairly cheap. It ran perfectly fine after that. I bought the switch at the Omega Store by the bridge near Lukewright Street if you know where that is. They specialize in generators and small engines so they might be an option for you if you can't get it fixed yourself. But it has to be taken to them, No home service.
    Think about that low oil pressure switch.
     
    • Informative Informative x 1
  7. OP
    OP
    Rye83

    Rye83 with pastrami Admin Secured Account Highly Rated Poster SC Connoisseur Veteran Army

    Messages:
    13,106
    Trophy Points:
    451
    Occupation:
    FIRE
    Location:
    Valencia
    Ratings:
    +16,069 / 3,795
    Blood Type:
    O+
    That is where I bought my generator. I had noticed that the throttle control seemed to be connected to some wires that ran into the bottom of the engine casing. Wasn't sure if this was a sensor for checking oil level or for the RPMs (or both). The thing is due for an oil change as well. Believe I'll remove that part and take it down to Omega and see if they can test it/clean it out.
     
  8. Cletus

    Cletus DI Forum Adept Showcase Reviewer

    Messages:
    390
    Trophy Points:
    176
    Ratings:
    +357 / 107
    Gasoline deterioration can sometimes be an issue that diesel engines do not have. Gas that is part ethanol is especially bad and has a short shelf life of about 3 months. After that it can turn into varnish. As one poster stated, carbeurator cleaner might help.
     
    • Like Like x 1
    • Informative Informative x 1
  9. OP
    OP
    Rye83

    Rye83 with pastrami Admin Secured Account Highly Rated Poster SC Connoisseur Veteran Army

    Messages:
    13,106
    Trophy Points:
    451
    Occupation:
    FIRE
    Location:
    Valencia
    Ratings:
    +16,069 / 3,795
    Blood Type:
    O+
    I haven't been using old fuel (or letting fuel sit in the tank for long periods). It had been sitting for awhile but the tank was emptied. The carb probably does need a good cleaning (I've had the generator for around 4 years now and the carb has never been cleaned)....that's not something I would do myself as it is a bit above my mechanical know-how. Probably best I just take the entire carb off and take it to the shop to be taken completely apart and cleaned.

    Thinking more about this it probably is a bunch of gunk from the nasty fuel here in the Philippines (not just old fuel). Had the same problem with the Fireblade's throttle being sticky/sluggish/hard to rev (until it warmed up) and it was because a bunch of sticky black gunk had collected on the throttle valves. That was a major PIA (and I only had to take it all apart, didn't do any of the actual cleaning). Whatever is pushing the throttle back and forth is probably having trouble pushing and pulling against that nasty gunk buildup.
     
  10. robert k

    robert k DI Forum Patron Highly Rated Poster Veteran Army

    Messages:
    1,525
    Trophy Points:
    315
    Ratings:
    +1,213 / 264
    Something else you might try if you can reach the air intake is to get the generator running and rev it up and close the choke or put your hand over the air inlet to make it pull a hard vacuum then pull your hand away before the engine dies and repeat a couple of times. This will often make trash in the carb go through.

    Fuel lines don't just deteriorate on the outside. If this doesn't fix you up, a carb cleaning may be next.
     
    • Thanks Thanks x 1
  11. KINGCOLE

    KINGCOLE DI Senior Member Highly Rated Poster

    Messages:
    685
    Trophy Points:
    271
    Occupation:
    RETIRED
    Location:
    BATINGUEL
    Ratings:
    +984 / 443
    Blood Type:
    A+
    I only buy fuel from Shell, Petron or Caltex. I believe the rest is made in the mountains.

    food-drink-moonshine_liquor-liquor-gas_prices-petrol_prices-gas_stations-dbrn861_low.jpg
     
Loading...