Home & Garden Water Pressure Systems

Before we install a Water Pressure System, i want an idea of what to buy in the way of tank, pump, plumbing and electrical. Installer will cover details.

We have a rental and the landlord is covering biggest percentage (their retirement home), so it should be simple but good, not great. Currently 3 residents, 2 baths, kitchen. Up near the airport, current pressure ok but low at times.

What should we be looking at in way of tank size and pump size ??? Any other considerations ??

As Hawk pointed out in an ancient post, Polaris is the most likely go-to for a water system. I wanted to pay an architect for some info, but none of the four we were introduced to returned our texts, all obviously way too busy for simple consultation.

 

My observation is that pumps wear out faster if they have to suck the water and push it uphill. So I have a plan (if I ever get around to it ) to put a water holding tank at the highest level that the municipal water pressure will fill on a good day. That is about equal to the ceiling of my second floor CR.

Then I need only attach a pressure system that feeds from that tank without having to suck and pressures the water downhill so has gravity as an added assist.

The water holding tank will fill slowly and at certain times of the day will not even get any water (be sure to have a one way check valve to be sure the water does not leak back into the municipal supply), but so long as the tank holds 1,000 liters (more or less) then I can go a couple days without it being fed and one good night will fill it up again.

I know this system works because a house I used to rent had this system and it had the added advantage that during a brownout you still have gravity feed water pressure.

 

i've installed a few pressurized systems but i'm not an exspurt or have i experienced the following myself but your system components are sposed to last longer if you get a larger tank so the system recycles less often.

also, a larger tank will get you more use during a brownout and longer showers at a more steady pressure..

 

We have a 1500 litre storage tank, which is good for 3 - 4 days (3.5 people) and a pressure tank holding about 50 litres. It's the size of the pressure tank which affects the pump cycle time. The system operates at about 40 psi. You will also need a non return valve between the storage tank and the pump and a float switch in the storage tank which will turn the pump off when the water level in the tank is too low.
Noel at Citi Hardware can advise and fit the system. Excellent guy.

 

THIS I believe is the most important addition, I have been waiting for someone to mention it as it seems most here rely on manual topping up, and unless you climb the tower you will not know how much is in the Tank until it is empty, this would solve many problems and if I ever get to build an underground tank system I would like to fit a float switch setup to ensure it remains full in case I ever need it to fight a fire where a good volume of water is required.

 

For the system, i have a couple thoughts.. First, Dave, the Water Holding Tank, or Storage Tank, normally fills from water pouring in the top. If that is correct, there would be NO siphoning back into the City water, so what is the need for a check valve ???? Also our Bestank Storage tank comes with a simple float shutoff integral in the tank.

Also, why would you need a check valve (one-way) from the storage tank to the pump INLET, the OUTLET of the pump IS the pressure tank, which would preclude water draining that way ?? I'm thinking the only one-way needed is in the bypass line to the old supply line to the house, to which the now pressurized water connects downstream..

We sprung a bit extra for the 132 L (35 gal) pressure tank, which should alleviate most problems of pump recycling. Checked a couple sources, and our 600 L storage tank should be ok (Dumaguete water). Pump is 3/4 hp. As our house is one story with a mezzanine, we are told we do not need to elevate the tanks.