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3rd floor house addition

Discussion in 'Property Development' started by ShawnM, Feb 13, 2022.

  1. OP
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    ShawnM

    ShawnM DI Forum Patron ★ No Ads ★ Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer Blood Donor Veteran Air Force

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    Thanks...this forum was such a help when I started navigating things and if I can add some experience and advice that is really cool to me.

    Shawn
     
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  2. OP
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    ShawnM

    ShawnM DI Forum Patron ★ No Ads ★ Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer Blood Donor Veteran Air Force

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    When we initially built our house the steel studs were not easy to source, with our current renovations they are much more available. Looking at around 180 peso per stud but is another quick install compared to block, I'm a huge fan of EVG panels but for this renovation it really wasn't an option in the shorter time frame.

    I have not gone down the lane for prefab stud wall or trusses, we hired welders on our initial roof build, to the design of the roofing contractor; saved a bit. Metal studs are super easy once you get the guys on board.

    Shawn
     
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  3. Ozzyguy

    Ozzyguy DI Forum Adept

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    I am a fan of the steel stud and also EVG and if build in PI would more than likely build that way.
     
  4. DAVE1952

    DAVE1952 DI Senior Member Showcase Reviewer

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    Shawn in the interests of everyone who may perhaps do a future build here and reads the information we have both posted on this Forum, I must comment in my opinion the Steel Studs that you buy here made for this type of construction are just not fit for purpose other than to be used for an internal partition wall, they are so light and flimsy, also they require bracing in between the uprights, supplied in 3x2inch and 3 metre lengths not an ideal size and of a thickness of only around 0.6mm to 0.8mm when the frames are put together they have to be fixed in some way and these fixings, likely to be Pop Rivets show on the sheet material when fitted to the frame.

    My house was built using a Pillar and Beam structure only these were constructed with heavy gauge angle bar in a kind of Warren Truss design and then the walls were filled in with the steel studs and Hardieflex , for the steel studs I used C channel roof purlings, these had to be adapted to be used for this, this steel is supplied in 6 metre lengths and can be of various gauges, I used 4x2 inch at 1.2mm for most of my build they cost P700 a length, only the door and window frames were 1.5mm and were around P150 more in cost, to adapt these for this purpose requires a little extra work but when put together they are a tight fit together and need a few kicks to get in place, they require no fixing at this stage, only when the sheet material is placed the hardiedrive screws fix the sheets and the steel together all at the same time, fitting them at 16inch centres makes for a very strong wall and requires no bracing in between the studs, this is a great benefit when extra electrical switches/sockets are retro fitted. this method is perhaps difficult to follow in my description here, but I will attach a couple of Pics which may give a better idea?

    IMG_1363.JPG IMG_1372.JPG
     
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  5. Ozzyguy

    Ozzyguy DI Forum Adept

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    Dave I am going to disagree with you on the stud size.

    The light gauge stud frame is used in many countries that have a much higher regulations and building code than Philippines and if built right can handle Cat5 winds.
    Its all about the design including the roof trusses, panelling etc.

    The heavy duty frame is not needed and just adds to the unnecessary costs and labour.
     
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  6. DAVE1952

    DAVE1952 DI Senior Member Showcase Reviewer

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    HaHa, In my case this was needed, this helps me sleep better at night, IF BUILT RIGHT? that just ain't going to happen here in PI unless you do all of it yourself? it is essential to over engineer everything here due to the shortcomings of these Pinoy workers. 3inch stud walls look terrible to me like the walls of a Portakabin, however I did partly resolve this on the only wall which I did in the 3 as I put a 5inch door standard on it and fitted a deep facing to the one side and this has a far better look to it and the skinny wall is kind of hidden now.

    Understand all this framework in my house was built under the supervision of a Scotsman with some input from a German friend, this is the BMW of steel framed houses, and all you Feckers from your second rate 1st world countries can stick your light gauge where the sun don't shine.

    Cheers

    Dave
     
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  7. john boy

    john boy DI Forum Luminary Highly Rated Poster

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    How to influence and make new aquaintences.........:rolleyes: I love you Dave, especially when you shoot from the hip!!! ( I know you don't mean it )
     
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  8. Ozzyguy

    Ozzyguy DI Forum Adept

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    Hhahaha........ok
     
  9. OP
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    ShawnM

    ShawnM DI Forum Patron ★ No Ads ★ Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer Blood Donor Veteran Air Force

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    Dave...in the interest of everyone I will also mention that I do build for a living. I agree that the metal studs I used are not a structural component of the house (load bearing) but are quite well intended for the use for the hardiflex and supporting windows and doors. They are standard sized that I've used in many different countries, actually quite common in construction.

    Beam and column construction is very common in many places around the world and you are basically left with hollow block (quality is really bad here), EVG, metal or wood studs. Block is what most folks on the residential side have experience with here so that seems to be the norm. EVG is and will always be my first choice followed by metal studs and hardiflex.

    On this renovation we went with a contractor and agreed to a set cost for manpower and we buy all materials; a bit easier from the management standpoint as neither myself or the lovely wife has the time and I'm heading out if a few days.

    Our contractor used rivets for securing the metal studs together...hard to find the self-tapping pan head screws here...I have some but other than time I have no problem with the rivets. They initially wanted to use rivets to secure the hardiflex for reasons I cannot fathom, that ended quickly and we are using the proper screws that are easy to find.

    I won't be as blunt as Dave, but there are challenges building here and fortunately I was home for a good bit of this renovation. I'm still at a loss that I've never had an electrician pass by my house (from building to other renovations) that has a clue; obviously I came up carrying a tool bag as an electrician but WOW. I was also very disappointed in their "easy" plan to tie in the stairs from the second to third floor; easy to catch as I was here, would have caught it from pics but more difficult to explain the correct way to connect to the existing the rebar if I wasn't here. It took a full 8 hour day X 2 guys to do it correctly...wonder if I will get hit with a change order from the contractor?

    There are different construction techniques, most have their own merits based on experience, convenience or cost. I've never planned to put anything out to say "do it my way or you are wrong" and I hope I haven't presented myself that way; I've built things here that are done correctly to the standards that I do in my professional life...well the Nipa guest house doesn't come with specs but that thing is solid.

    When the typhoon passed by I was never in doubt about my house...was more worried some neighbors roof would come flying over, many did lose their roofs but fortunately didn't hit our house.

    Shawn
     
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  10. Notmyrealname

    Notmyrealname DI Forum Luminary Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer

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    I think that place is called 'Scotland' :smile:
     
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