Though lots of search results on the internet says you can convert 220v to 110v at an outlet, a local electrician and my EE grad nephew in Cebu both say No. So what's different about the way Noreco delivers power that prevents it? I did find a Yahoo Answers ? where the guy in Phils asked if he could disconnect one wire and cap it, then run a wire from the empty side of the outlet to a copper ground stake (which I would want to do anyway) .. He was told it's a lousy idea but it'd work. I have a 1200w 110v small cooking appliance coming and if I could just add a small box to a heavy duty ext cord and proper breaker etc it'd be a lot cheaper than buying a 1500w power supply.
I have done a few thing in dealing with electrical situation here. I purchased two roll of electrical tape here, one green and one read. If a appliances can be plugged into the 220 v wall plugs here I put green around the plug cord up against the plug. If it can not (110 volt) , and must go through a converter it gets a red piece of tape around the plug. I tell any of my guest when they arrive, not to plug a "red" plug into a wall socket and have not lost any appliances due to being plug in inappropriately. You may want to "mark" you 110 appliances, the tape is like 15 P at Novo (next to Lee Plaze) for a small roll. Secondly you do not have to buy a 15oo watt converter there are smaller converters at a more reasonable price, check Citi hardware as one source . Thirdly many times the problem is not the excess voltage as much as the reduced voltage delivered here by the highest price electrical supplier in Asia. The lower voltage does chew up and spit out electrical appliances including lighting fixtures with ballasts, microwaves etc. Supposedly a new transformer, at your expense (not the electrical supplier's), or converters help this situation. You may want to read other threads on the forum for more information. Sorry none of my comments directly apply to your question about converting at plug, but there are some other members with much better electrical knowledge that may be able to help you, but I hope my information helps you or gives you information for you to think about. @Gabrielle_K
Simple solution, just go to Polaris Equipment and turn right when you enter the store. You will see a row of converters that will do the job for you. They can put an external female outlet on it for you (wired 110). Then plug your 110 stuff into it directly. Also they can build you a proper extension cord with as many outlets as required. Great store, great service. I did this 5 years ago and have never lost an appliance to power surges or power fluctuations. Hope this helps...
Though lots of search results on the internet says you can convert 220v to 110v at an outlet, a local electrician and my EE grad nephew in Cebu both say No. The electrician and the EE are correct. You can not do that. So what's different about the way Noreco delivers power that prevents it? The Philipines use 220 Volts single phase. North America uses 120 Volts, 2 phase (180 degrees apart). It is technically called a "3 wire Edison" connection. Google 3 wire Edison. The 3 wire Edison connection is often found in North American kitchens and cloths dryer outlets. I did find a Yahoo Answers ? where the guy in Phils asked if he could disconnect one wire and cap it, then run a wire from the empty side of the outlet to a copper ground stake (which I would want to do anyway) .. He was told it's a lousy idea but it'd work. That information is wrong. You will still end up with 220 volts that will drop off close to 0 volts when th appliance is turned on and the potential to get a nasty shock. I have a 1200w 110v small cooking appliance coming and if I could just add a small box to a heavy duty ext cord and proper breaker etc it'd be a lot cheaper than buying a 1500w power supply. Your best bet is to buy a step down transformer. NOTE:You can buy an AVR which often will have a 11o volt output but a 1500 VA (watt) 220v AVR will only supply 750 VA (watt) at 110 volts.Check the specs before you buy. &Imps idea to make the 110 volt appliance cords will save you a lot of grief.
Handyman robs has 1500w AVRs that output 750, also converters rated at 1500w so I'd go with the latter when the time comes.
The vast majority of laptop and cell phone chargers work on 110/220. You shouldn't have any problem. You can check the input ratings on the charger itself to be sure.
Get the excess watt one for your 1200 watt appliance.. You will need the extra watt buffer.. The ones they sell at the hardware stores vary from very basic with the coil roll exposed and all, to well built boxes. I think the one i got listed its Wattage in terms of the 110 output so i would not be confused.. Not sure, did i get a 4500 watt 220 ? hmmm I bought the one with two outlets and a switch on the back that lets you convert 110 to 220 and then switch to convert 220 to 110. I shipped over a small US spec. whisper quiet honda generator very fuel efficient EUi series.. So i needed to convert its 110 to 220 for brown outs... Also I had shipped over some pricey electronics and efficient fans that were 110V. I needed to convert the 220 to 110 when no brown outs. I fried my efficient vortex fan one day when i forgot to switch over the 110/220 switch to the right setting.. So my 110 fan was burning 220 while i wandered the house looking for what smelled like electrical fire.. Then the fan started humming funny and seized up... Thats when my brain woke up and the fan died... I learned and never lost track again after that.. I Never let my helper touch the electrical set up because she would never account for the appliance voltage requirements.. I watched when i was a kid, my dad blow a lucrative contract in Africa when his American spec. machine was plugged in without the converter, done by his african raised apprentice who never saw US or its voltage specs.. The machine was fried and no way to fix or replace it..
