⌛ Mechanical Insight??

So the multi cab i adopted is not mine but extended to me and i gave it some work/breathe of life before i could take it out..every thing is manageable considering the age and history of the car,Now i want to go more into fixing; the brakes are sluggish-they work and the front caliper/pad set looks full and the rotor is smooth and thick with no visible or vibration feel of warp,,the rear brakes are drums and cant get in to see them(no tools) ,so i suspect they are at fault cause it feels like my motor bike did when the rear brakes were limp.......Any way I know air in the brake lines will do it but also want to find if these have brake boosters/master cylinder combo like many cars do and if they can go bad in ways that make my symptoms?no brake fluid loss shows in fluid holder or any where i can see... I'm going to mechanic ultimately but not giving up without learning something for myself if I can.I dont speak mechanics visaya..I will grovel under and around the car see if she will talk to me in case no one here will:D thanks anybody

 

Tunji...kama'aina...just for you my almost moke bruddah....
If the brake fluid is clean and full....than I would expect the rear pads to be worn....easy to replace...(a very unlikely possibility is a blocked line but almost never happens) not as easy as discs to replace but it isn't rocket science either......You can do it yourself (as i have many times - maybe .5 - 1hr a wheel) but labour there is cheap enough - why would you bother....
Say hi to Pele next time you go home!

 

To remove the rear brake drums you need 2 steel bolts, something like 8 mm but in English size (i'm sure they have these bolts at Robert's autoparts)
You have to screw on the bolts to push away the drum (look for 2 holes)
The brakeshoes can be rebonded, if the brakefluid pump (inside the drum)is blokked you will have to replace them (no possible to repair)
For spareparts for multicab, try Asiatic store, from the parc opposite Belltower go towarts Ceres terminal / Cockpit after about 100 m at the left site.(opposite Smart)

 

The bolt holes for removing the drums are in fact 8 MM. Multicabs are Japanese made, not English.

The wheel cylinders are rebuildable if they have not been rusted too badly. The rubber cups can be found at most any auto parts store.

Every time I ever went to Aisatic I was charged over new price for used parts. I would recomend D'City or Earthworks.

Larry

 

so I started this morning at the brake fluid resovoir above and aside the glove box and followed the lines to the mastercylinder inbetween the radio console and the seering wheel all in the dashboard console(luckily the radio console is busted open)..All was good and master cylider was afront a booster drum and it all looked new (maybe cause housed in the dashboard in cab)and no leaks at all;so i followed the lines down to the under body noting the brake pedal showed good pressure thus no air or leaks there,the lines were all clean even the rubber high pressure hose parts not chaffed or crackled..There was a second cylinder like (but smaller than) master cylinder under the body half way to the rear on passenger side ,this then went on to both rear tires where the only thing i could not inspect was the rear drums...I have no way to open them....Thanks for the word about the pump in the cylinder I know what that looks like in some cars but didnt cross my mind today I will replace it even if it works as long as the brakes need to be redone in there...I want to have the mechanics do the work but i want to be able to know exactly what they are doing and why so as they milk my dollars,they know my eyes arent a blank stare of zero mechanical insight..i diagnosed the carburator and spark plugs last time and directed mechanics straight to it and they fixed on the spot working OK..I want them to ask me what i want them to do -not them tell me ...Cool you guys

 

OH i noted the oil dip stick reads 3 times or more the high level as in too much oil but I didnt drain any cause the old engine may need it but I have no clue why,,its not leaking and the spark plugs foul, not so much with spark soot but with wet oil where even soot doesnt get to touch the metal..Its a terrible cold start engine and this could be why. the oil is still thick retarding spark until its hot where the oil just flows off or even burns with the spark...I dont want to normalize the oil level unless i get advise on why some one may find it needed to put 3 times normal oil level.Is there any problem in old good sounding engines where it would need that much oil???

 

No reason I ever heard of to put excess oil in. But the dipstick may not be original and it may indicate more OR less than it should. Hard to know until you drain it then keep track of the amount you put in. Of course, you need to know the recommended amount before you do that or else you're working blind.

It is potentially damaging if you put waaaay too much oil in an engine. Don't have a clue, in your case, if that is what is happening. But the wet plugs suggests that the oil is forcing itself upwards past the rings every time the pistons stroke downwards????

 

Oh yes. One more thought. I doubt that it is physically possible to put 3 times as much oil as normal into ANY crank case. You might be able to put a couple extra quarts/liters in, but certainly not 3 times as much. There simply isn't enough room for that much oil.

 

I made my living as an automotive and as diesel truck mechanic. TO, I am sure your engine has forced oiling of the pistons that provides the correct lubrication. If the crankcase is overfilled the crankshaft will hit the oil and splash larger quantities of oil that the piston rings cannot control, fouling plugs and giving poor performance and fuel milage. I think you need to find out the correct capacity for your engine, drain, refill 1 quart at a time and check your own dipstick, If it is not calibrated properly you can mark it with an engraving tool or a file.

 

Good advice, Robert.