I'd hop on over and check it for you but I'm still one year away from retirement to a 13a.
My go to when troubleshooting hard to find parasitic loads is to clamp an inductive ammeter around the battery positive cable to measure and monitor current draw. Key off and removed, doors closed should tell all the modules to go to sleep. Five minutes works for most vehicles to get the ECM, TCM, ABS and any other modules a modern vehicle might have to sleep. Parasitic load should be less than 60ma and ideally less than 20 ma. Now lets say your measuring 200ma. Start by pulling fuses one at time to narrow things down. If none of the fuses lowers the draw, disconnect the alternator then the starter.
The easy solution is to disconnect the battery ground when not in use. Ok, the radio clock blinking might get annoying but it's a cheap workaround.
If you don't want to open and close the hood every time then this 344pp anti-theft device with remotes will serve two functions. https://www.lazada.com.ph/products/...ce=search&spm=a2o4l.searchlist.list.1&stock=1
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I've had a similar issue before, and it turned out to be a faulty alternator. If you have anything in the car that might be left on, like a light or even a door that's not closing properly, that could drain the battery too. Since your battery's fairly new, it might just need a quick check from a mechanic. I had to deal with this once, and getting it checked saved me a lot of hassle.
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