Kitchens and Termites

I should clarify we live in Tubog Bacong, so perhaps being a bit farther away from the ocean helps, although we do have the river running right behind our house. My wife has said she gets bit but I haven't had much myself when we are there. Maybe my American blood isn't palatable to the local mosquitos!

 

If I read this corectly then you have no need to dig the 2m pits for the suport beams/pillars
No other digging of dirt only to be backfilled with gravel, along with all the smaller pillars? At least that is how ours was biuilt (over a week of just digging where the foundation pillars would go).

How much or how deep did you make the gravel?

How deep is the slab?
Also, I asume you used premixed cement from a truck to make it a single pour.

I appologize if this has already been asked and answered. I was thinking of making a similar structure to use as a garage/ basketball court (just to the 3 pt line).


This sounds similar to a modular home, but by DIY it is more customizable
AND
you know how it was done
AND
you can add to it whenever you want.

 

Is your home single story or two? I am asking because the 2 m pits seems like a lot.

 

I looked at many diagrams in picture form from the internet all the information you need is there, likely you can build on it with blocks? but I would not. this is suited to a much lighter stud framed structure, and for here in the Philippines steel studs are likely to be there for a longer term than wood (also very likely to be there for a longer term than your CHB house if that is what it is?) You must look on the internet to fully understand the design it is very simple really but better to have a look anyway.

My slab is just under 150M2 and 6inch thick but it has a 14inch beam all around the perimeter and a beam down the centre, these beams have a 7 inch 12mm rebar cage within them and 10mm bar at 12inch centres both ways for the slab tied into the beams, the gravel was 5inch thick under the slab and just an inch or two below the beams. the beams and the slab are all poured at the same time, in fact the concrete for this 150mtr slab was down and flattened in 1.5hrs.
For a standard 20ft by 10 garage a 4inch slab without beams is adequate with a light framed structure on top, just to be sure you can have 4000psi concrete provided but 3000 is normally enough for a slab, threaded anchor bolts are readily available here, better to install these before the casting of the slab. Look at this link;
monolithic slab foundation - Bing images

 

Thank you sir, I read it should be 6 inches as you reafirmed but I don't always trust what is on-line so information from someone with 1st hand konowlage gets priority.

For the rest of ya'll, you are asking about the neighbor and dont even knoe their age. Coupd be ad old or order than the most of the people here

 

Just one, but some things were over designed since we are ocean side.
If the roof flys off the bones of the house will remain.

We also have multiple septic tanks, one small for each bathroom connected to a main 3 chamber for kitchen, and another overflow another 5m away.
The idea is, with proper care, I wont need to have them emptied.

 

I started to tile all the main floors of the house a couple of days ago, every room has the same tile apart from the two bathrooms and the floors and walls are done in these. There is one problem when casting a large Monolithic slab all done in one complete pour and that is getting it straight and level, well as it happens mine could have been better, but it is what it is and I just have to correct the flaws when having the tiles laid, in some places there is 2cm difference from the base level, so I am going through Tile Adhesive at a fast rate. However I have found a product that you mix with ordinary Portland cement, it is called Tile Grip and cost P250 per sachet, mix this in with one complete 40kg bag of cement and then three of sand this is an everyday 3 to 1 mix, But Pinoys measure the sand in old cement bags generally with the tops ripped off and often frayed and you tend to only get 66% of the volume of the cement in this way, one bag of cements fills a 4ltr Davies paint tin 9 times and a Pinoy bag of sand fills it 6 times, so there you will have a 2 to 1 mix, every site I have been on and this includes my own this has been the way they measure their sand, I now realise this is Stupid and they are using 33% less sand than they should and 33% more cement this may not be accurate but close I would think?
Anyway this tile admix gives you the eqivelent of 5.2 bags of tile adhesive and the cost is just under P500 which includes the cost of the sand and cement, 5.2 bags of standard ABC Tile Adhesive costs P1300, so using this method it is less than half price.

 

Seems this process would work on a larger scale too. Basicly making studs for walls. I am guessing if the steel purlings would be bolted to the foundation it would act similar to the base wood frames usd in the states.
From there, deending on the building size and usage, the exterior could be 12mm hardiflex, the good painted rooffing metal, or, for the daredevils, plywood.

I am still thinking of the large garage/ basketball court. This could allow it to be covered, private, and have elctrical outlets, with the option of adding in the future as needed.
Now it upgrades from just a garage with paint on the floor to workshop and mancave. Further, by putting a hole in the wall at the proper hight to give the grass some special water, there would be little reason to leave.

 

Do you mean

 

My tiny kitchenette is concrete with plastic cabinetry from Citihardware. Should be pest and termite free as well.