I was just curious as it was not something I was aware of when we started building. If someone plans on buying their own transformer when they build, it is definitely something to check into and hopefully post if the utility bought off on that or not.
I did know that I would need a separate hook-up as the closest transformer had probably 20 houses on it already. What I was not expecting was to have to purchase our own transformer as I assumed it would be utility owned/provided...but it is the Philippines and few things really surprise me anymore.
It worked out fine and I'm happy we have our own transformer, no one can tap into it without the wife's permission and that will never happen; have actually mentioned in numerous posts that I highly recommend anyone building or buying look into purchasing their own transformer to minimize voltage drop due to overloaded transformers.
Shawn
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ShawnM Living the dream, Plan B ★ No Ads ★ Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer Blood Donor Veteran Air Force
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ShawnM Living the dream, Plan B ★ No Ads ★ Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer Blood Donor Veteran Air Force
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I'm curious if you purchased your own transformer before construction, ran your secondary and dropped your meter off to be calibrated if they would work with you? When we built our house the wife was told that they would NOT allow us a temporary service so we ran generators until we had the permanent service put in. Which really sucked.
I never spoke to them myself as I find it less stressful to let the wife deal with that. My first interaction with them was when they hooked up the transformer; we had already set the meter where it was convenient for them, set additional secondary poles and ran the secondary. My wife let them know I was an electrician by trade so we never had anyone physically come out to look at the house for any "final" inspection, everything was just signed off.
I assume there are different "rules" in different areas and who you actually speak with.
Shawn-
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ShawnM Living the dream, Plan B ★ No Ads ★ Highly Rated Poster Showcase Reviewer Blood Donor Veteran Air Force
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I read through my post from years ago on the EVG panels and it was not too much info. Here is the link to the house build posts...very long at over 49 pages but a lot of pics and some patience you will eventually get to the EVG panels going in.
House Build
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Just some general comments from reading responses to the OP, not critiquing his construction. With the beam and column construction the hollow blocks are really "filler" not structural. If you are using block as a structural component without beams as roof support I would have some concerns with the "average" block here, even with rebar and concrete fill (most are filled with mortar unfortunately) and the render are not enough to be structural.
As block is normally just a filler I would recommend using EVG panels. They are faster to install and give some thermal and acoustic properties with the Styrofoam. Super simple to install utilities and it all gets rendered anyways.
Standard construction with concrete and beam construction is usually to do the beams and columns first and then the block. I can see a slight benefit to doing your block first as you can use the block as your formwork. As mentioned earlier by another, you need 2" around your rebar cage for the concrete. Also, you need to "tie" the block to your columns with rebar or that wall is basically sitting there not tied to anything.
With a house constructed with concrete there is little need for sheetrock; I guess if you want to fur out and insulate but see no true benefit for doing so when you look at thermal mass of concrete. Again, using the EVG panels would be about the same insulation value without the extra work and cost.
For ceilings I would not use marine grade plywood. For what folks have mentioned with termites plus the fact that finishing it never seems to work well for the houses I've seen. Our house is two floors so I just went with the concrete deck that was rendered for the first floor. I did use hardiflex and tile for the master shower and it has held up quite well. I used hardiflex for the 2nd floor ceiling, the area is wide open to the elements. It was finished with joint tape and joint compound the same as you would finish a sheetrock ceiling. Hardiflex or the other type of cement board does take a bit more to install with even a 1/4" board is heavy but really worth the effort in my opinion because it will last much longer.
Wood cabinets, trim, doors, etc. should be treated for termites; I have not noticed any discoloration when you finish the wood; paint, stain or varnish.
Just my experience and thoughts.
Shawn-
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No way should a HB wall butt up to the rebar cage, all rebar must have at least 40m of encapsulation all the way round, hard to tell exactly from the picture, but I guess a half form will be placed over the cage each side and then the concrete dropped in from the top, it is not possible for it to get a firm grip on the inside rebar on the outer edge, also the HB wall will soak up the water out of the concrete like a wick, this further detracts from proper concrete construction added to all that; the likely small area of cross section of the pillar will render it not fit for purpose.
In a pillar and beam construction all vertical pillars should be constructed up to the first beam in one continuous pour and every 40mm there should be rebar projecting out the sides to then tie in to the HB wall which is formed after the pillars.-
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Brian Oinks That's Mr. Pig to you Boy! :) Highly Rated Poster
The BS part was I did as told and also painted it silly using that Wood-saver stuff that is suppose to stop all Termites in their tracks, d*mn stuff is like Mayonnaise dressing to them!
Maybe Asawa now understands why I wanted to go with the Fibro-cement sheeting but being more expensive, Ply it was. Live and lean Asawa, live and learn...-
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